At 105, Vijayalakshmi Silks chose to celebrate its legacy not with speeches or discounts, but with an extravagant exhibition of 105 saris — each one unfolding like a memory preserved in thread.
The collection stitched together geographies and generations. There were rich Kanjeevarams, intricate Banarasis, and the unmistakable sheen of Mysore silk. Priced between Rs 13,000 and Rs 4 lakh, the saris carried stories of looms, labour, lineage — and of a revival now reshaping India’s silk economy.
From royal courts to waiting queues
The current frenzy around Mysore silk is rooted in a much older story — India’s centuries-old relationship with silk itself.
Sericulture flourished along ancient trade routes across Bengal, Assam, and Karnataka. But the modern identity of Mysore silk was forged through royal patronage and industrial ambition.
The turning point came in 1912 under Nalvadi Krishnaraja Wadiyar, who established a silk-weaving factory in Mysuru with imported Swiss machinery. The idea was to standardise quality and transform silk from an elite indulgence into a structured regional industry.
That initiative would later evolve into the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation (KSIC), embedding Mysore silk deep within both Karnataka’s economy and cultural imagination.
Today, an authentic Mysore silk sari is distinguished by its pure silk yarn, real zari, restrained design language, and a finish that lends the fabric its celebrated drape.
“Mysore silk brings together royal patronage, institutional production, and modern retail. Its future lies in refinement, not reinvention,” said Ally Matthan, trustee of The Registry of Sarees.
And refinement is precisely what consumers appear to be chasing. Across India, retailers are seeing a visible shift away from disposable fashion towards pieces that carry memory, permanence, and inheritance value — garments meant not merely to be worn, but passed down.
The demand has become so intense that it has occasionally spilled into scenes more commonly associated with product launches than handloom retail.
Outside KSIC showrooms in Karnataka, customers have reportedly queued as early as 3 am and 4 am to secure authentic GI-tagged Mysore silk saris. With prices ranging from Rs 23,000 to Rs 3.5 lakh, limited stock often disappears within hours of restocking, forcing the corporation to temporarily prioritise in-store buyers over online sales.
The frenzy has earned Mysore silk an unlikely nickname in some circles: “India’s new Birkin”.
Retailers say the shift is unfolding in real time. “Customers today are looking for value in every piece they buy,” said Dhiren C Ashok, managing partner at Vijayalakshmi Silks and the fourth generation of the legacy business. “They are willing to go the extra mile if the product offers both quality and emotional connection.”
That shift has triggered renewed interest in handwoven saris, particularly Mysore silk. Unlike heavier weaves, Mysore silk’s lighter texture and understated elegance allow it to move easily across occasions, generations, and regions.
There is also a generational pull at work. Younger buyers, especially brides, are increasingly drawn to saris that resemble those worn by their mothers and grandmothers. “A young customer walks in asking for what her mother or grandmother wore,” Ashok said. “Vintage is no longer niche. It has become a growing and common request.”
Celebrity influence has amplified the trend. Recently, Rashmika Mandanna drew attention for wearing a crepe silk sari at a wedding reception. “We never imagined crepe saris would become part of a bridal trousseau. But after that, demand surged,” Ashok said.
Running parallel to this cultural revival is a digital one. The pandemic fast-tracked online adoption across industries, and silk retail was no exception.
For legacy retailers like Vijayalakshmi Silks, the transition marked a huge shift. “We were largely offline for decades,” Ashok said. “But after the pandemic, we were pushed to accelerate online, and since then, we have invested heavily in our digital presence.”
That investment extends beyond e-commerce into social media storytelling, archival cataloguing, and educating consumers about craftsmanship. Increasingly, retailers are documenting the journey of each sari — from loom to showroom — much like Taneira by Titan.
Behind the sheen of silk lies a far more fragile ecosystem. For decades, many weaving communities operated on thin margins, struggling with low returns and limited access to modern tools. That equation, retailers say, is beginning to shift.
“Today, weavers are more open to investing in infrastructure,” Ashok said. “Earlier, there was hesitation. Now, with stronger demand, they see the value in evolving.”
Sustainability, in this context, is not merely about raw materials. It is about sustaining people, skills, and livelihoods. “When demand is stable and informed, it naturally supports sericulture and weaving communities,” said Rohith C Ramesh, managing partner for customer and product development at Vijayalakshmi Silks. “We see ourselves as enablers of that cycle.”
Few fabrics in India carry history quite like Mysore silk. Its association with the Mysore royal family continues to shape its identity, lending the weave an enduring aura of authenticity.
For Kamakshi Devi Wadiyar, the connection remains deeply personal. She recalls generations of her family sourcing saris from Bengaluru’s silk stores, including Vijayalakshmi. “Quality is what matters,” she said. “Even today, saris from my grandmother’s time remain in excellent condition.”
Her memories also trace the early journey of Mysore silk — from state-run factories and pure zari to its transition from royal wardrobes into public markets after Independence.
While the role of royal families in preserving textile traditions may be evolving, their symbolic value remains powerful. “All the art and craft from here should be preserved,” Wadiyar said. “India’s weaving culture is unmatched.”
At the heart of Mysore silk’s revival lies a tightly woven ecosystem of sericulturists, weavers, dyers, traders, and retailers.
“Sustainability begins with ensuring the ecosystem remains viable for the people at its core,” Ramesh said. “When demand is stable and informed, it naturally supports weaving communities.”
For retailers like Vijayalakshmi Silks, the road ahead is measured rather than hurried. Expansion — both within India and overseas — is on the cards, even as the focus remains fixed on preserving identity and strengthening production.
“We want to grow organically,” Ashok said. “The story may be 105 years old, but it still feels like the beginning.”
And if the crowds gathering around Mysore silk counters are any indication, the next chapter for the weave may be its most vibrant yet — a fabric once born in royal courts now caught in the fever of modern aspiration, where tradition meets scarcity, and heritage becomes desire.
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